The Best Weed Killers for Bermuda Grass

Bermudagrass is a popular choice for lawns in warm climates due to its exceptional heat and drought tolerance, rapid growth, and ability to withstand heavy traffic. It creates a dense, beautiful turf when properly maintained. However, its aggressive spreading nature, which makes it an excellent choice for turf, also means it can become a persistent weed in areas where it’s not desired, or be easily invaded by other aggressive weeds if not managed. The challenge for homeowners and professionals alike is how to control unwanted weeds within a Bermudagrass lawn without harming the desirable turf itself.

Many common herbicides that work effectively on weeds in other grass types can severely damage or kill Bermudagrass. Therefore, selecting the right weed killer – one that is specifically formulated to be safe for Bermudagrass while still targeting common broadleaf and grassy weeds – is crucial. This guide will delve into the nuances of Bermudagrass as a lawn choice, explore whether it’s considered “good” or “bad” (or even illegal in some places), and most importantly, identify the best weed killers that can help you maintain a pristine Bermudagrass lawn by targeting the invaders without harming your desired turf.

4 Best Weed Killers for Bermuda Grass

When selecting a weed killer for Bermudagrass, the primary goal is selectivity: killing the weeds without damaging the desirable Bermudagrass. This means choosing herbicides with active ingredients known to be safe for Bermudagrass while being effective against common broadleaf and grassy weeds. Always read the product label thoroughly before application, as rates and specific uses can vary.

Here are 4 categories of weed killers commonly recommended for Bermudagrass lawns:

1. Three-Way Herbicides (for Broadleaf Weeds):

   • Active Ingredients: Often a combination of 2,4-D, MCPP (mecoprop-p), and Dicamba.
   • What they kill: These are highly effective against a wide range of common broadleaf weeds such as dandelions, clover, plantain, chickweed, henbit, thistle, and many more.
   • How they work: These are systemic herbicides, meaning they are absorbed by the weed’s leaves and transported throughout the plant, disrupting growth and eventually killing it.
   • Safety for Bermudagrass: Generally very safe for established Bermudagrass when applied according to label directions. Bermudagrass is quite tolerant to these active ingredients.
   • Application: Available in both liquid concentrate (requiring a sprayer) and granular forms (often combined with fertilizer as “weed and feed”). Apply when weeds are actively growing and temperatures are moderate (typically 60-85°F). Avoid applying during extreme heat or drought stress.
   • Examples: Ortho Weed B Gon MAX Weed Killer for Lawns, Spectracide Weed Stop for Lawns for Southern Lawns, many generic “Trimec” equivalents.

2. Quinclorac (for Crabgrass and some Broadleaf Weeds):

   • Active Ingredient: Quinclorac.
   • What it kills: This is excellent for post-emergent control of various grassy weeds, particularly crabgrass, which is a common nemesis in Bermudagrass. It also offers control of some broadleaf weeds like clover, plantain, and speedwell.
   • How it works: Quinclorac is a selective systemic herbicide. It works best when applied to young, actively growing crabgrass, but can still be effective on more mature crabgrass (up to the tiller stage). It’s absorbed by leaves and roots.
   • Safety for Bermudagrass: Very safe for established Bermudagrass.
   • Application: Primarily available as a liquid concentrate. Often requires the addition of a non-ionic surfactant for best results, as specified on the label. Apply when temperatures are moderate.
   • Examples: Drive XLR8, Ortho Weed B Gon MAX Weed Killer for Lawns (some formulations include Quinclorac), generic Quinclorac products.

3. Sethoxydim (for Annual and Perennial Grassy Weeds, excluding Bermudagrass):

   • Active Ingredient: Sethoxydim (often found in products like Poast, Hi-Yield Grass Killer).
   • What it kills: This herbicide is highly selective for killing narrow-leaf (grassy) weeds within broadleaf plants or desired turfgrasses. It is particularly effective against undesired perennial grasses like tall fescue, ryegrass, and even crabgrass that might be invading a Bermudagrass lawn, as well as annual grasses like foxtail.
   • How it works: Sethoxydim specifically inhibits lipid synthesis in susceptible grasses, effectively killing them. It is designed not to harm Bermudagrass.
   • Safety for Bermudagrass: Extremely safe for Bermudagrass lawns. This is often the go-to product when you have a cool-season perennial grass invading your warm-season Bermudagrass.
   • Application: Liquid concentrate, requires a surfactant. Apply to actively growing weeds. Read label carefully as there might be specific use rates for different grass invaders.
   • Examples: Hi-Yield Grass Killer Post-Emergent Herbicide, Fertilome Over-The-Top II Grass Killer.

4. Atrazine (for Broadleaf Weeds and Annual Bluegrass in Warm-Season Grasses):

   • Active Ingredient: Atrazine.
   • What it kills: Primarily used for selective post-emergent and some pre-emergent control of broadleaf weeds (like henbit, chickweed, spurge, clover) and particularly annual bluegrass (Poa annua) in warm-season grasses.
   • How it works: Systemic herbicide, absorbed by roots and foliage. Disrupts photosynthesis.
   • Safety for Bermudagrass: Safe for established Bermudagrass when applied correctly.
   • Application: Often available in liquid concentrate. Can be applied as a pre-emergent in fall for winter annuals, or post-emergent in spring/fall when weeds are actively growing. Avoid application during dormancy or extreme heat. More restricted in some areas due to environmental concerns.
   • Examples: Southern Ag Atrazine St. Augustine Weed Killer (check label for Bermudagrass safety as often formulated for St. Augustine), Hi-Yield Atrazine Weed Killer.

Important Considerations for All Applications:

• Read the Label: This is paramount. Every product label contains specific instructions for application rates, timing, target weeds, safety precautions, and turfgrass tolerance.
• Temperature: Most herbicides are most effective and safest for the lawn when applied during moderate temperatures (e.g., 60-85°F). Avoid applying during extreme heat (above 90°F) or when the lawn is stressed by drought.
• Moisture: Some require moist soil, others require dry foliage. Follow label instructions.
• Spot Treatment vs. Broadcast: For isolated weeds, spot treatment is preferred to minimize overall chemical use. For widespread infestations, a broadcast application might be necessary.
• Establishment Period: Do not apply herbicides to newly seeded or newly sodded Bermudagrass until it is well-established (e.g., after 2-3 mowings or several months, refer to label).

By carefully selecting and applying the appropriate weed killer, you can effectively manage unwanted plants while preserving the health and beauty of your Bermudagrass lawn.

What Exactly Is Bermudagrass?

Bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon) is a warm-season turfgrass widely utilized across the southern United States, parts of the arid West, and other tropical and subtropical regions globally. It’s often chosen for its exceptional resilience and ability to thrive in challenging conditions where many other grasses struggle.

Here are its key characteristics:

• Warm-Season Grass: Bermudagrass thrives in hot temperatures, actively growing when temperatures are between 75°F and 95°F (24°C and 35°C). It goes dormant and turns brown when temperatures consistently fall below 50-55°F (10-13°C), typically during winter frosts.
• Growth Habit: It spreads aggressively through both stolons (above-ground runners that root at the nodes) and rhizomes (below-ground runners that produce new shoots and roots). This extensive root and runner system allows it to quickly fill in bare spots, recover from damage, and form a very dense turf.
• Texture: Varieties range from fine-textured (like hybrid Bermudagrass, often used on golf courses) to medium-textured. Most common lawn varieties are medium-textured.
• Color: Typically a medium to dark green, though color can vary with fertility and variety.
• Sunlight Requirements: Bermudagrass requires full sun (at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily) to perform its best. It will thin out and struggle in shaded conditions.
• Drought Tolerance: It has excellent drought tolerance once established due to its deep root system. While it may turn dormant (brown) during prolonged drought, it typically recovers quickly when water becomes available.
• Heat Tolerance: Unmatched heat tolerance, making it ideal for scorching summers.
• Wear Tolerance: Extremely high wear tolerance and excellent recuperative capabilities. This makes it ideal for high-traffic areas, sports fields, and golf course fairways.
• Maintenance: Can be high-maintenance if a golf-course-like manicured look is desired (requiring frequent low mowing, regular fertilization, and irrigation). However, it can also be maintained as a relatively low-maintenance turf with less frequent mowing and fertilization if a coarser, less formal look is acceptable.
• Weed Suppression: Its dense growth habit helps it naturally outcompete many weeds once established.

In summary, Bermudagrass is a robust, resilient, and aggressive warm-season grass known for its ability to withstand heat, drought, and heavy traffic, making it a popular choice for lawns in the southern United states and similar climates globally.

So, Is Bermudagrass Good or Bad?

The perception of Bermudagrass as “good” or “bad” largely depends on context, perspective, and geographic location. What makes it highly desirable in one situation can make it a persistent nuisance in another.

Why Bermudagrass is Considered “Good”:

1. Exceptional Durability and Resilience:
   • Heat and Drought Tolerance: It thrives in hot climates and tolerates prolonged dry periods better than almost any other common lawn grass.
   • High Traffic Tolerance: Its aggressive growth and robust nature mean it stands up well to heavy foot traffic, making it ideal for active lawns, sports fields, and public parks.
   • Rapid Recovery: It quickly recovers from damage, wear, and even minor pest infestations due to its extensive stolon and rhizome system.
2. Fast Establishment and Erosion Control:
   • Can establish quickly from seed or sod, providing rapid green cover.
   • Its dense root system and spreading growth make it excellent for erosion control on slopes and disturbed areas.
3. Dense, Attractive Turf (with proper care):
   • When properly fertilized, mowed, and irrigated, Bermudagrass forms a very dense, uniform, and attractive turf that can rival the appearance of cool-season grasses.
4. Weed Suppression:
   • Once established and healthy, its dense growth habit can naturally outcompete and suppress many common weeds, reducing the need for herbicides.
5. Versatility:
   • Available in many varieties, from fine-bladed hybrids for golf greens to coarser varieties for general lawns, allowing for different aesthetic and functional uses.

Why Bermudagrass is Considered “Bad” (or a Nuisance):

1. Aggressive and Invasive:
   • Its very strength is its biggest weakness in certain contexts. The aggressive stolons and rhizomes allow it to quickly invade flower beds, vegetable gardens, sidewalks, and neighboring lawns where it’s not wanted. Controlling it in these areas can be extremely difficult.
2. Winter Dormancy:
   • As a warm-season grass, it turns brown and goes dormant with the first frost, remaining brown through the winter. This is undesirable for homeowners who want year-round green. (Overseeding with ryegrass can temporarily alleviate this, but adds maintenance.)
3. Shade Intolerance:
   • Requires full sun (at least 6-8 hours daily). It will thin out, become weak, and die in shaded conditions, creating bare, unsightly patches.
4. High Maintenance for “Perfection”:
   • While it can tolerate lower maintenance, achieving a dense, golf-course-quality Bermudagrass lawn requires frequent low mowing (often twice a week or more), regular fertilization, and proper irrigation.
5. Difficult to Eradicate:
   • Its extensive root system makes it incredibly difficult to kill and remove once established, especially without the use of non-selective herbicides. This is a major issue for those trying to convert a Bermudagrass lawn to another grass type.
6. Allergenic Potential:
   • Bermudagrass pollen is a common allergen for many people, contributing to seasonal allergies.

Conclusion:

Bermudagrass is good if you live in a hot, sunny climate, desire a durable, low-water-use (once established) lawn that can handle heavy traffic, and are prepared to manage its aggressive nature and winter dormancy. It’s an excellent choice for sports fields, golf courses, and many residential lawns in the southern US.

It’s bad if you live in a cooler climate, have significant shade, want a perfectly green lawn year-round, or have delicate flower beds and gardens that would be easily overrun by its invasive spreading habit. It can also be considered “bad” by those who find its aggressive nature in gardens a persistent nuisance.

Ultimately, it’s a matter of choosing the right plant for the right place and managing expectations.

Is Bermudagrass Illegal in Some Places?

No, Bermudagrass is not illegal to grow as a turfgrass in residential or commercial lawns in the United States or generally anywhere in the world where it is commonly cultivated as turf.

However, there can be regulations or strong discouragements related to its planting and management due to its highly invasive nature and competitive characteristics. These are usually in the form of:

1. Homeowners Association (HOA) Rules:

   • Many HOAs, particularly in regions where both warm-season and cool-season grasses can grow (e.g., the upper Transition Zone), may have rules against planting Bermudagrass. This is often because it goes dormant and turns brown in winter, which can clash aesthetically with neighboring cool-season lawns that remain green.
   • Some HOAs might also restrict it to prevent its aggressive spread into adjacent properties where it’s not desired.

2. Agricultural Pest Status/Quarantine Zones:

   • While not “illegal” for lawns, Bermudagrass (especially the common variety) is considered a noxious weed in many agricultural contexts, particularly in crops like cotton, corn, and vineyards. Its aggressive growth makes it incredibly difficult to control in agricultural fields, leading to significant yield losses.
   • In some states or specific agricultural areas, there might be regulations regarding the transport of Bermudagrass sod or seed to prevent its introduction into sensitive farming regions, but these are generally related to its status as an agricultural pest, not as a lawn grass.

3. Local Ordinances/Recommendations for Water Conservation:

   • In drought-prone areas, especially in the Western United States, some municipalities or water districts might encourage or even mandate planting native or low-water-use turfgrasses. While Bermudagrass is drought-tolerant, it might not be a native species in some of these regions, and certain varieties may still require more water than truly xeriscape options. These are usually recommendations for sustainable landscaping rather than outright bans.

In summary: You won’t find laws prohibiting you from planting Bermudagrass in your lawn. The “illegal” notion is largely a misconception stemming from its invasive nature in gardens and agricultural settings, and its winter browning which can lead to HOA restrictions in certain regions. For a residential lawn in a suitable warm climate, it remains a common and entirely legal choice.

Bermudagrass Weed Killers We Reviewed

In the preceding sections, we discussed the core principles behind selecting weed killers safe for Bermudagrass and highlighted four primary categories of herbicides. This section provides a summarized review of those types, reiterating their strengths and specific uses in a Bermudagrass lawn. It’s crucial to remember that “best” is always contextual, depending on the specific weed you’re targeting and your application preference (liquid vs. granular).

Our review focused on active ingredients and their general applications, rather than specific brand names (which can vary widely by retailer and region). However, we’ve provided common examples to help you identify them on store shelves.

1. Three-Way Herbicides (Active Ingredients: 2,4-D, MCPP, Dicamba)

   • Purpose: Excellent broadleaf weed control.
   • Strengths: Highly effective against common weeds like dandelions, clover, plantain, chickweed, and many others. Very safe for established Bermudagrass. Widely available in various formulations (liquid, granular, weed-and-feed).
   • Limitations: Does not control grassy weeds (like crabgrass or fescue invaders). Requires application when weeds are actively growing and not stressed.
   • Review: These are your go-to products for standard broadleaf weed infestations in a Bermudagrass lawn. They are foundational for maintaining a clean turf against the most common culprits.

2. Quinclorac (Active Ingredient: Quinclorac)

   • Purpose: Primarily for crabgrass control, with some broadleaf efficacy.
   • Strengths: The industry standard for post-emergent crabgrass control in Bermudagrass. Effective even on more mature crabgrass plants (beyond the seedling stage). Also provides incidental control of some broadleaf weeds. Safe for Bermudagrass.
   • Limitations: Best on younger crabgrass. May require a surfactant for optimal performance. Less effective on perennial grassy weeds.
   • Review: If crabgrass is your primary concern in your Bermudagrass lawn, Quinclorac-based products are indispensable. They are powerful tools for rescuing a lawn from aggressive crabgrass invasions.

3. Sethoxydim (Active Ingredient: Sethoxydim)

   • Purpose: Selective control of grassy weeds within Bermudagrass.
   • Strengths: Uniquely safe for Bermudagrass while effectively killing unwanted perennial cool-season grasses (like tall fescue, ryegrass) and many annual grasses (like foxtail) that invade warm-season lawns. Crucial for converting fescue patches to Bermudagrass.
   • Limitations: Does not control broadleaf weeds. Requires careful application and often a surfactant.
   • Review: This is a highly specialized but incredibly valuable tool for Bermudagrass owners. If you have clumps of fescue or ryegrass (which stay green in winter) standing out in your dormant Bermudagrass, Sethoxydim is likely the solution you need.

4. Atrazine (Active Ingredient: Atrazine)

   • Purpose: Broadleaf weed control and annual bluegrass (Poa annua) control in warm-season grasses.
   • Strengths: Effective on a range of broadleaf weeds and one of the few post-emergent options for annual bluegrass in Bermudagrass. Can also provide some pre-emergent control.
   • Limitations: Environmental concerns have led to some restrictions on its use. Less effective on grassy weeds other than annual bluegrass. Not suitable for cool-season grasses. Best applied during specific temperature ranges.
   • Review: Atrazine is a strong choice if annual bluegrass is a recurring problem in your Bermudagrass, or for specific broadleaf weeds. Its usage requires careful attention to the label due to its persistence and potential environmental impact.

Overall Recommendation:

For a comprehensive weed control strategy in Bermudagrass, homeowners often benefit from a combination approach:

• A three-way herbicide for general broadleaf weed control throughout the growing season.
• Quinclorac for specific crabgrass issues, especially if they emerge despite pre-emergent efforts.
• Sethoxydim for persistent perennial grassy invaders.
• Atrazine if annual bluegrass or specific tough broadleaf weeds are a consistent problem.

Remember that pre-emergent herbicides, applied in early spring (for summer annuals like crabgrass) and fall (for winter annuals like annual bluegrass), are the first line of defense to prevent weeds from emerging, thus reducing the need for post-emergent solutions. Always build your weed control strategy around prevention first, followed by targeted post-emergent applications when necessary.