Welcome to the PestPolicy Radio Show & Podcast, where we bring you the latest in pest management and, as a bonus, essential home care tips to keep your sanctuary in top shape! Today, June 10, 2025, we’re diving into some common household headaches and offering practical, DIY-friendly solutions that can save you time, money, and future frustration. From those annoying drywall “nail pops” to ensuring your dryer vent is functioning optimally, we’ve got you covered.

Hour 1

How to Stop Drywall Nails from Popping Out

Those small, circular bumps or cracks on your drywall, often referred to as “nail pops,” are a common sight, especially in newer homes. While seemingly minor, they can be an eyesore and, in some cases, indicate underlying structural movement.

Why They Happen: Nail pops occur when the nails or screws used to secure drywall to wall studs begin to protrude. This can be caused by:

  1. Wood Shrinkage: As lumber in new homes dries out and contracts, it can pull away from the drywall fasteners.
  2. Temperature & Humidity Fluctuations: Seasonal changes cause building materials to expand and contract.
  3. Improper Installation: Nails/screws driven in too deeply, at an angle, or not hitting the stud correctly.
  4. Foundation Settling/Vibrations: More severe cases might point to structural shifts or vibrations from heavy traffic.

The Simple Solution: For isolated, minor nail pops, you can fix them yourself. For widespread or recurring issues, consult a professional to check for structural problems.

Method:

  1. Locate the Fastener: Gently press around the pop to confirm it’s a nail or screw.
  2. Secure the Area: Drive a new drywall screw (preferably) about 1.5 inches above or below the existing nail/screw into the stud, sinking it slightly below the surface (dimple, not tear).
  3. Remove or Sink Old Fastener: If it’s a nail, use a hammer to drive it flush or slightly below the surface, or if it’s very loose, carefully pull it out with pliers. If it’s a screw, try to tighten it, but if it spins, remove it.
  4. Prepare the Surface: Clean any loose debris. Apply a thin coat of spackle or joint compound over the new screw head and any remaining dimple from the old fastener. Feather the edges to blend.
  5. Sand & Repeat: Once dry, lightly sand smooth. Apply a second thin coat if needed, sand again.
  6. Prime & Paint: Prime the repaired spots before painting to ensure the patch doesn’t show through.

Pro Tip: Use drywall screws instead of nails during new installations or extensive repairs. They offer a much stronger hold and are less prone to popping.

How to Raise an Outdoor Dryer Vent

A dryer vent that’s too low to the ground can become easily clogged with debris, snow, or even become a home for small pests. Raising it can improve efficiency and prevent issues. This usually involves modifying the exterior exhaust system.

The Simple Solution: Adjusting the external ductwork.

Method:

  1. Safety First: Disconnect your dryer from power and gas (if applicable) before starting.
  2. Assess Current Setup: Examine the existing vent run from your dryer to the exterior wall. Note the current height of the exterior vent hood.
  3. Measure for New Height: Determine your desired new height. Ensure it’s high enough to avoid ground-level obstructions but still allows for a short, direct run. Local building codes may have minimum height requirements (often 12 inches above ground).
  4. Disassemble Exterior Vent: Carefully remove the existing exterior vent hood. You may need to cut around caulk or screws.
  5. Adjust Interior Ducting: Inside, you’ll need to re-route or replace the ductwork. If you’re only raising it slightly, you might be able to gently bend existing flexible ducting or add a new elbow piece. For significant height changes, you may need to install new rigid metal ducting with appropriate elbows. The goal is to keep the run as short and straight as possible for optimal airflow. Avoid excessive bends.
  6. Cut New Opening (if necessary): If the new height requires a completely new exterior opening, carefully measure and cut a hole in your exterior wall using a hole saw (typically 4-inch diameter).
  7. Install New Vent Hood: Insert the new dryer vent hood through the opening. Secure it to the exterior wall with screws, ensuring a tight fit. Apply exterior-grade caulk around the perimeter to seal against moisture and pests.
  8. Connect Interior Ducting: Connect the interior ductwork to the new vent hood using foil tape (never duct tape or screws that protrude into the duct, as they can snag lint) and/or metal clamps.
  9. Test: Reconnect your dryer and run it briefly to ensure proper airflow and no kinks or leaks.

Pro Tip: Regularly clean your dryer vent ductwork to prevent lint buildup, which is a significant fire hazard.

Hour 2

What You Can Put Down a Garbage Disposal

Garbage disposals are convenient, but they’re not indestructible. Putting the wrong items down can lead to costly clogs and damage. Knowing what’s safe is key.

What You CAN Put Down (in moderation, with cold water):

  • Soft Food Scraps: Most fruits (without pits), vegetables (cut into small pieces, avoiding fibrous ones), and cooked meat scraps (small pieces).
  • Ice Cubes: Helps to clean the blades and dislodge food residue.
  • Small Citrus Rinds: Can help freshen the disposal’s smell.
  • Liquids: Most liquids are fine.
  • Dish Soap: Can help clean and deodorize.

What You Should NEVER Put Down:

  • Grease, Fats, Oils (FOGs): These solidify in pipes and cause severe clogs. Pour into a container and dispose of in the trash.
  • Fibrous Foods: Celery, corn husks, onion skins, artichokes, asparagus, potato peels. Their fibers can tangle around the blades and jam the motor.
  • Expandable Foods: Uncooked pasta, rice. They expand with water and can create blockages.
  • Hard Items: Bones, fruit pits (avocado, peach), seafood shells (shrimp, crab), nut shells. These are too hard and can damage the disposal’s motor or blades.
  • Coffee Grounds: They accumulate and become sludgy, forming clogs.
  • Egg Shells: The membrane can stick to the grinding components and accumulate. (Despite popular myth, they don’t sharpen blades).
  • Starchy Vegetables: Large quantities of potatoes, beans. They can create a thick paste.
  • Non-Food Items: Plastic, metal, glass, paper, cleaning chemicals (beyond dish soap).

Pro Tip: Always run cold water before, during, and for at least 20-30 seconds after grinding to flush food particles completely through the drainpipes.

How to Solve Toilet Flushing Issues

A malfunctioning toilet is a common and frustrating problem. Most issues stem from simple component failures within the tank.

Common Issues & Simple Solutions:

  1. Toilet Running Constantly (Phantom Flush):
    • Cause: Most often, a faulty flapper that isn’t sealing properly, allowing water to leak from the tank into the bowl.
    • Solution: Turn off the water supply, flush to empty the tank, and check the flapper. If it’s warped, brittle, or has mineral buildup, replace it. Ensure the chain from the flush lever to the flapper has slight slack. If the flapper is fine, the fill valve might be stuck open or misadjusted (float is too high).
  2. Weak or Incomplete Flush:
    • Cause: Not enough water entering the bowl, or clogged rim jets.
    • Solution:
      • Check Water Level: Lift the tank lid. Is the water level reaching the overflow tube? If not, adjust the fill valve float to raise the water level.
      • Flapper Opening: Ensure the flapper opens fully and stays open long enough. The chain might be too long, or the flapper itself is sticking. Adjust chain length or replace the flapper.
      • Clogged Rim Jets: Mineral buildup can block the small holes under the rim of the toilet bowl. Use a wire hanger or small mirror to locate and clear these jets. Pouring white vinegar down the overflow tube and letting it sit overnight can help dissolve mineral deposits.
  3. Toilet Not Flushing (Handle Jiggles, Nothing Happens):
    • Cause: Disconnected or broken flush handle/lever or chain.
    • Solution: Open the tank lid. Check the connection between the handle, its arm, and the chain leading to the flapper. Reconnect if loose, or replace the handle assembly if broken.

Pro Tip: Before troubleshooting, always turn off the water supply valve behind the toilet to prevent overflows.

How to Install an Underlayment

Underlayment is a thin layer of material installed between the subfloor and the finished flooring. It plays a crucial role in providing support, moisture protection, sound deadening, and a smoother surface.

The Simple Solution: Proper prep and careful laying.

What You’ll Need:

  • Underlayment (specific to your flooring type - e.g., foam for laminate, cork for soundproofing, plywood for structural)
  • Utility knife
  • Measuring tape
  • Duct tape or specialized seam tape
  • Hammer/nails or screwdriver/screws (if fastening plywood)
  • Safety glasses, gloves

Method:

  1. Prepare the Subfloor: This is the most critical step. Ensure the subfloor is clean, dry, flat, and free of debris, protruding nails/screws, or unevenness. Repair any cracks, soft spots, or squeaks. For concrete subfloors, check moisture levels; a vapor barrier underlayment might be essential.
  2. Acclimatize Underlayment (if required): Some underlayments, especially certain cork or fiber types, need to acclimatize to room temperature and humidity for 24-48 hours before installation.
  3. Start in a Corner: Begin in a corner of the room, typically perpendicular to the direction your finished flooring will run.
  4. Roll/Lay Out First Row: Roll out the first strip of underlayment, allowing about 1-2 inches to run up the wall (this will be trimmed later). Ensure it lies flat without wrinkles.
  5. Cut to Fit: Use a utility knife to cut the underlayment to length, scoring it heavily and then snapping.
  6. Join Seams: Lay the next row directly butt-to-butt against the first, ensuring no gaps or overlaps. Use the recommended tape (e.g., seam tape, foil tape, or standard duct tape for some foam types) to seal all seams. This prevents moisture from seeping through and keeps the underlayment flat.
  7. Continue Across Room: Repeat the process, ensuring all seams are tightly joined and taped.
  8. Trim Excess: Once the entire floor is covered, carefully trim any underlayment that runs up the walls flush with the floor or according to your flooring manufacturer’s instructions.
  9. Install Flooring: You can now proceed with installing your finished flooring on top of the underlayment, following the flooring manufacturer’s specific instructions.

Pro Tip: Always choose an underlayment specifically recommended by your flooring manufacturer to ensure compatibility and warranty validity.

Best New Products

Here are some innovative home products making waves in 2025:

  • Smart Water Leak Detectors with Automatic Shut-off: These devices (e.g., from Moen, Phyn) detect leaks and can automatically shut off your main water supply, preventing catastrophic damage. Many now integrate seamlessly with smart home systems.
  • Ventless Heat Pump Dryers: Gaining popularity for their energy efficiency and flexibility (no external vent required), these are ideal for apartments, condos, or homes where traditional venting is impossible or difficult.
  • Modular Smart Lighting Systems: Beyond smart bulbs, new modular systems allow for highly customizable lighting arrangements, integrating light panels, strips, and fixtures that respond to voice, motion, or app controls.
  • Self-Cleaning Toilets/Bidets: Building on smart toilet technology, some new models feature enhanced self-cleaning functions, UV sanitization, and integrated bidet features for ultimate hygiene and convenience.
  • High-Performance SPC/WPC Flooring with Advanced Sound Dampening: These engineered vinyl plank options now come with even thicker wear layers, more realistic textures, and integrated acoustic backings, rivaling the look of hardwood while offering superior water resistance and sound reduction.

Simple Solutions

  • Deodorize Drains: Pour 1/2 cup baking soda down the drain, followed by 1 cup white vinegar. Let it fizz for 15-30 minutes, then flush with hot water.
  • Tighten Loose Screws: Regularly check cabinet hinges, doorknobs, and drawer pulls. A quick tighten with a screwdriver prevents sagging and damage.
  • Clean Refrigerator Coils: Twice a year, pull out your fridge and vacuum the condenser coils to improve efficiency and extend its life.
  • Test Smoke/CO Detectors: Press the test button monthly. Replace batteries annually and replace the units every 7-10 years.
  • Flush Water Heater: Drain a few gallons from your hot water heater annually to remove sediment, improving efficiency and lifespan.

Further Reading

  • “The Homeowner’s Handbook: Essential DIY Repairs” by Bob Vila
  • “Ultimate Guide to Plumbing” by Creative Homeowner
  • “Drywall: Professional Techniques for Great Results” by Myron Ferguson
  • EPA WaterSense Program: For tips on water efficiency in your home.
  • Consumer Reports: For reviews and guides on home appliances and building materials.