The Southern United States, characterized by its long, hot summers and mild winters, is home to distinct types of grasses known as “warm season grasses.” Unlike their cool-season counterparts found further North, these grasses thrive in temperatures between 80°F and 95°F, and go dormant, turning brown, when temperatures consistently fall below 50-55°F. Understanding the unique needs of these turf varieties is crucial for cultivating a lush, resilient lawn year-round.
This guide will walk you through the essential care practices for Southern lawns, focusing on the specific needs of warm-season grasses across each season. We’ll cover everything from proper watering and fertilization to weed and pest control, ensuring your lawn remains a vibrant green backdrop for your home.
Caring for Warm Season Grasses
The most common warm-season grasses found in Southern lawns include:
- Bermudagrass: Highly tolerant of heat, drought, and heavy traffic, Bermudagrass is a popular choice for its aggressive growth and ability to recover quickly from damage. It thrives in full sun and requires frequent mowing.
- St. Augustinegrass: Known for its broad, coarse blades and a rich green color, St. Augustinegrass is favored in coastal areas dueishing in sandy soils. It has good shade tolerance but is less tolerant of cold and heavy foot traffic.
- Zoysiagrass: Forming a dense, soft carpet, Zoysia is more shade and cold tolerant than Bermudagrass, making it a good option for the transition zone. It’s drought-tolerant and handles foot traffic well once established, but is a slower grower.
- Centipedegrass: Often called the “lazy man’s grass” due to its low-maintenance requirements, Centipedegrass has a light green color and prefers acidic soil. It’s slow-growing and has low fertilizer needs but isn’t ideal for high-traffic areas or deep shade.
- Bahiagrass: Frequently found in the deep South and Gulf Coast, Bahiagrass is highly drought-tolerant and thrives in poor soil conditions, often used in pastures or along roadsides, but also as a low-maintenance lawn grass.
Regardless of your specific warm-season grass type, consistent care throughout the year is key to its health and vigor.
Caring for Your Southern Lawn in Spring
Spring is a critical time for Southern lawns, as warm-season grasses begin to emerge from dormancy and prepare for their peak growing season.
- Scalping & Cleanup (Late Winter/Early Spring - February/March): As soon as the threat of frost has passed and your lawn begins to show signs of greening, scalp your lawn. This involves mowing at the lowest setting possible (without damaging the crown of the plant) to remove dead winter growth. Bag the clippings. This helps the soil warm up faster and encourages new green growth. Clear away any remaining leaves or debris.
- Soil Testing (Early Spring): Conduct a soil test every 2-3 years. This provides valuable insights into your soil’s pH and nutrient levels, guiding your fertilization strategy.
- Weed Control (Early Spring): Apply a pre-emergent herbicide when soil temperatures consistently reach 50-55°F (typically late February to early March, but timing is critical for crabgrass prevention). This creates a barrier that prevents weed seeds from germinating. Spot treat any existing broadleaf weeds as needed.
- Fertilization (Late Spring - April/May): Wait until your warm-season grass is fully greened up and actively growing (usually when temperatures are consistently above 65°F at night) before applying your first round of nitrogen fertilizer. This avoids feeding winter weeds or pushing growth too early when the grass is still waking up. Follow soil test recommendations for N-P-K ratios.
- Aeration & Dethatching (Late Spring/Early Summer - April/June): Warm-season grasses are best aerated and dethatched during their active growth period. This typically means late spring to early summer. Aeration relieves soil compaction, allowing water, nutrients, and air to reach the roots. Dethatching removes excessive thatch buildup that can harbor pests and diseases.
- Mowing: As growth begins, gradually raise your mowing height to the recommended level for your specific grass type. Mow frequently enough to remove no more than one-third of the blade height at a time. Leave clippings on the lawn if they are small, as they return nutrients to the soil.
Caring for Your Southern Lawn in Summer
Summer is the peak growing season for warm-season grasses, demanding consistent care to withstand heat, drought, and high traffic.
- Mowing: Continue regular mowing at the recommended height. For most warm-season grasses, this is usually between 1-3 inches, though some St. Augustine varieties may prefer slightly higher. Avoid cutting too short, as taller blades provide shade to the soil, reduce evaporation, and help suppress weeds.
- Watering: Deep and infrequent watering is crucial. Aim for 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall, applied in one or two sessions. Water early in the morning (before 10 AM) to minimize evaporation and allow grass blades to dry, reducing disease risk. Look for signs of drought stress like “footprinting” (grass blades staying flattened after being stepped on) or a blue-gray tint.
- Fertilization (June/July): Apply another round of balanced fertilizer during peak summer growth, especially if your soil test indicated deficiencies or your lawn experiences heavy use. Be mindful not to over-fertilize, as this can lead to excessive growth and increased water demand.
- Pest and Disease Control: Summer’s heat and humidity can bring out lawn-damaging insects (like chinch bugs, grubs, armyworms) and fungal diseases (like brown patch). Monitor your lawn regularly for signs of distress. Apply appropriate insecticides or fungicides as needed, following label directions. Grub control is often best applied in mid-summer when grubs are actively feeding.
- Spot Weed Control: Continue to spot treat any broadleaf weeds that emerge.
Caring for Your Southern Lawn in Fall
Fall is a transition period for Southern lawns, where warm-season grasses begin to prepare for dormancy. Focus shifts from aggressive growth to strengthening roots and preventing winter weeds.
- Reduce Fertilization (September/October): As temperatures cool and days shorten, reduce or stop nitrogen fertilization. A final application of a low-nitrogen, high-potassium (winterizer) fertilizer in early fall (September) can help strengthen roots and improve winter hardiness for some warm-season grasses (like Bermuda and Zoysia). Avoid late-season nitrogen, as it can stimulate tender new growth susceptible to cold damage.
- Winter Weed Control (Late Fall - October/November): Apply a pre-emergent herbicide again in late fall to prevent cool-season weeds (like poa annua or annual bluegrass, henbit, and chickweed) from germinating during the winter months.
- Leaf Removal: Rake or mulch fallen leaves regularly. A thick layer of leaves can smother grass, block sunlight, and create conditions for fungal diseases.
- Mowing: Continue mowing until your grass stops growing and begins to go dormant. You can slightly lower the mowing height for the last few cuts to prevent matting of dormant blades.
- Overseeding (Optional): If you desire a green lawn through winter, you can overseed Bermudagrass or Zoysia lawns with annual ryegrass in early to mid-fall (late September/October). This cool-season grass will stay green during winter but will die off as warm-season grasses green up in spring.
Caring for Your Southern Lawn in Winter
Winter is a dormant period for most warm-season grasses in the South (except for the deepest, frost-free regions). The focus is on minimal disruption and preparation for spring.
- Minimal Traffic: Avoid heavy foot traffic or parking vehicles on dormant grass, as this can damage the crowns and compact the soil, leading to slow recovery in spring.
- Weed Control: Continue to spot treat any active winter weeds. Dormant grass is less susceptible to herbicide damage, but always follow product labels.
- Watering (If Dry): While dormant, warm-season grasses generally require little to no irrigation. However, if your region experiences prolonged dry spells without rain, a light watering once or twice a month can help prevent dehydration of the root system.
- Equipment Maintenance: Use the winter months to sharpen mower blades, service your lawn mower, and repair any damaged equipment so it’s ready for spring.
Going with the Pros
For many homeowners, the time, effort, and knowledge required for consistent, effective Southern lawn care can be daunting. Professional lawn care companies offer a compelling alternative:
- Expertise: Professionals understand the specific needs of warm-season grasses, local soil conditions, and common regional pests and diseases.
- Specialized Products & Equipment: They have access to professional-grade fertilizers, herbicides, and equipment not readily available to the average homeowner, ensuring precise application.
- Time Savings: Outsourcing lawn care frees up your weekends for other activities.
- Consistent Results: Regular, expertly applied treatments often lead to more consistent and dramatic improvements in lawn health and appearance.
Top Pick: TruGreen
When considering professional lawn care services for Southern lawns, TruGreen stands out as a top pick due to its comprehensive approach, science-backed methodology, and extensive experience with warm-season grasses.
Why TruGreen is ideal for Southern lawns:
- Tailored Plans for Warm-Season Grasses: TruGreen doesn’t offer a generic program. Their specialists are trained to assess your specific warm-season grass type, soil conditions, and regional climate. They then customize their annual plans (like TruComplete or TruHealth) to deliver the right nutrients and treatments at the optimal times for your grass. Their services for warm-season turf specifically include appropriate fertilization timings (avoiding early nitrogen application on dormant grass), pre-emergent weed control at correct soil temperatures, and specific insect/disease management for common Southern issues like chinch bugs or brown patch.
- Science-Driven Approach: TruGreen employs agronomists and PhD-certified specialists who stay abreast of the latest in turf science. This ensures that the products used and the methods applied are effective for the unique challenges of Southern climates.
- Comprehensive Services: Beyond just fertilization and weed control, TruGreen offers services vital for warm-season lawns, such as aeration, overseeding (if applicable for transition zones or specific grass types), grub control, and soil enhancements to improve overall turf health.
- National Reach with Local Knowledge: While a large national company, TruGreen’s extensive network means they have local branches staffed by professionals familiar with the specific soil types, weather patterns, and common lawn issues in your Southern region.
TruGreen’s ability to combine scientific expertise with localized knowledge and a broad range of services makes them a highly effective partner for maintaining a beautiful, healthy Southern lawn throughout the year.
FAQs About Caring For a Southern Lawn
Q: When should I first fertilize my warm-season grass in the spring? A: Wait until your warm-season grass is fully greened up and actively growing, usually when nighttime temperatures are consistently above 65°F. Fertilizing too early (when dormant or just starting to green) can feed weeds or stress the grass.
Q: How often should I water my Southern lawn in the summer? A: Aim for deep and infrequent watering, providing about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water once or twice a week, deeply, rather than frequent shallow watering, to encourage deep root growth. Early morning is the best time to water.
Q: Can I overseed my Bermudagrass lawn in the winter? A: Yes, you can overseed Bermudagrass (and some Zoysia lawns) with a cool-season grass like annual ryegrass in the fall (late September/October) to maintain green color through the winter. The ryegrass will die off as the warm-season grass greens up in spring.
Q: What’s the best way to deal with crabgrass in a Southern lawn? A: Prevention is key. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide in early spring when soil temperatures consistently reach 50-55°F. For any crabgrass that emerges, spot treat with a post-emergent herbicide labeled for your specific grass type and for crabgrass.
Q: How low should I mow warm-season grasses? A: Mowing height varies by grass type, but typically ranges from 1-3 inches during the active growing season. St. Augustinegrass often prefers 2.5-3 inches, while Bermudagrass can be mowed lower (1-2 inches). Avoid removing more than one-third of the blade length at a time. Raise the mowing height slightly during periods of extreme heat or drought stress.